‘Buon Giorno’: How Melbourne’s Lygon Street has changed while keeping its charm
Julia Busuttil Nishimura discovered the joys of Lygon Street, Carlton while studying Italian at Melbourne University in 2007.
The celebrated Melbourne-based cook and author would stroll the strip during her breaks, exploring its Italian cafes and food stores. It inspired her to launch a career in recipe writing that embraced her Maltese heritage and love of Italian cuisine.
From flipping burgers at Grill’d to a recent collaboration at the Australian Open where her signature dishes found their way to the food court, Nishimura says she loved getting to know the local store owners on the strip and practiced her Italian when ordering a coffee at DOC.
Julia Busuttil Nishimura on Lygon Street, Carlton. Picture: Supplied
As a nine-year-old, she recalls arriving on the strip with her family when they visited from Adelaide.
“I can remember going to Brunetti and eating a sfogliatella filled with custard. I had never seen so many cakes and pastries in my life. It was an eye-opening experience,” says Julia Busuttil Nishimura.
As a 20-something, Lygon Street is where she filled her proverbial cup.
“I shopped for books at Readings, got all of my groceries at DOC and King and Godfree – and the no longer Lygon Food Store. I ate at DOC, Ti Amo and University Cafe, drank at Jimmy Watson’s, Carlton Yacht Club and even picked up bottles of wine from the cellar at King and Godfree to take home,” she says.
Julia Busuttil Nishimura on Lygon Street, Carlton. Picture: Supplied
As an ambassador for World Pizza Day with Toscano, she chose two nostalgia flavours that reminded her of Melbourne’s Little Italy, and inspired by her time living in Italy.
“I make a sausage ragù with some good quality Italian-style sausages and spread it onto the pizza base with some good fior di latte, topped with basil it’s a winner,” she says. “For a vegetarian option I’ve made one with provolone, Calabrian chilli, garlic and cavolo nero.”
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Julia Busuttil Nishimura’s memories of Lygon Street, Carlton
Lygon street still makes me feel nostalgic for my university days. I would spend a few hours studying at the library or attending lectures and then wander a few blocks to Lygon Street.
I would spend afternoons in Readings, looking at books (nothing’s changed there) then maybe head next door to Tiamo and meet friends for dinner. I would order the tortellini in brodo and a glass of house red. Maybe we would go and see a movie at Cinema Nova or go and have a drink at Carlton Yacht club, a bar on Lygon street which was an institution.
For me, Lygon Street in Carlton brings back memories of when I was younger and more care free.
Lygon Street, Carlton. Picture: realcommercial.com.au
First job
I so desperately wanted to work at one of the Italian delis, but ended up flipping burgers at Grill’d instead. While it wasn’t my dream job, it was good enough to help me save up for the whole year to go to Italy for two months over the summer. On my break, I would walk to DOC Espresso for coffee and practice my Italian with the waitstaff. That hasn’t really changed – I still love going there for coffee and having a chat in Italian to all the staff.
Julia Busuttil Nishimura on Lygon Street, Carlton. Picture: Supplied
Local character
Leo from Donati’s butcher. When you walk in, there are always fresh flowers in a vase and opera playing from the speakers. As he’s slicing mortadella or trimming a steak, you’re greeted with a jovial “buon giorno”.
I have been going there for nearly 20 years since I was a student and he has watched my kids grow – it’s rather special.
He’s always up for a chat and is always very encouraging and interested to have a conversation. When I had my babies, I would go in a lot. Those interactions were so important.
Lygon Street, Carlton. Picture: realcommercial.com.au
Favourite that’s no longer
My very favourite fruit and vegetable shop – First Choice Fruit & Vegetable Supplies was such a haven for me. Sadly, it closed in about 2019 and I think I talked about it closing for a whole year after.
When I was a student, I would have friends over for dinner parties and always shopped there. It was where I first saw fancy things like ‘baby vegetables’, discovered new varieties of potatoes I never knew existed and was always so in awe of their gorgeous displays.
I loved going in there to get inspiration for recipes or just buy a beautiful bunch of local flowers. It seems silly to love a fruit and vegetable shop, but it was really so lovely.
Julia Busuttil Nishimura on Lygon Street, Carlton. Picture: Supplied
Favourite that has stood the test of time
In Carlton since 1979, and on Lygon St since 2002, Donnini’s is an icon that has truly stood the test of time. I love their piadina – a romagnola flatbread filled with a Vitello tonnato. Their handmade pasta is unmissable too.
Favourite new-kid on the block
There are so many recent additions to Lygon Street which I love. One in particular is Lagoon Dining – a beautiful restaurant which leaning on Chinese culinary traditions. I go back for their Charcoal Roasted Char Siu and the hot and sour shredded potato.
Julia Busuttil Nishimura on Lygon Street, Carlton. Picture: Supplied
