Inner west is best: What it’s like to run a business on Sydney’s ‘coolest’ high street
Sandwiched between the nightlife hotspot of Newtown and craft brewery capital Marrickville sits one of Sydney’s smallest suburbs.
But don’t let Enmore’s size fool you, last year ranking in the top 20 ‘coolest’ neighbourhoods in the world according to Time Out, while the beating heart of Enmore Road was voted Sydney’s coolest street in 2022.
Enmore Road is a veritable melting pot of hip eateries, fast food joints, divey bars and pubs and late-night dance spots.
And following the NSW Government’s recent designation of the street as a permanent entertainment precinct, it has also unofficially been dubbed the city’s newest nightlife capital and hopeful successor to Kings Cross.
Enmore Road has been voted among the world’s ‘coolest’ streets by Time Out. Picture: Getty
But the iconic strip connecting the ever-hip Newtown with the craft beer swilling ‘burb of Marrickville hasn’t always been in vogue.
In fact, Enmore Road has long been a high street in a state of flux.
“When I was a teenager there wasn’t a whole lot going on aside from a couple of pubs, some small restaurants and an African hairdresser,” recalled Pasan Wijesena, co-owner of local joints The Trocadero Room and Jacoby’s Tiki Bar. “And of course, The Enmore Theatre.”
Pasan Wijesena is the co-owner of The Trocadero Room and Jacoby’s Tiki Bar in Enmore. Picture: Supplied
“There’s definitely far more variety now and more professional operators – and I don’t mean that in demeaning way, it’s just the quality of venues has gotten better and more diverse. And diversity is an important part of why the street really works.”
A cultural melting pot
The cultural diversity is what initially attracted restaurateur Ade Adeniyi to Enmore Road.
“When I moved to Australia in 2016, I saw how alive the street was – there was just always something happening there,” he remembered.
“But I thought it was strange that for such a big and important city as Sydney, there were no West African restaurants. So, after seeing what Enmore Road was like and all the different global cuisines, I knew it could be a great place to set up something like that.”
Ade Adeniyi owns Nigerian diner Little Lagos on Enmore Road. Picture: Supplied
Following a successful nine-month pop up at local bar Earl’s Juke Joint, Adeniyi’s vision for a Nigerian restaurant was fully realised when Little Lagos Bistro & Bar opened its doors in 2020.
Fast forward to today and Little Lagos does a roaring trade. A local favourite for many of the city’s 3000 Nigerian-born residents, it’s also garnered a cult-like reputation as one of the country’s must-do restaurants.
“While we do have a strong African, Asian and Pacific Islander following, most of our customers are actually Australians of European background,” explained Mr Adeniyi.
“One thing about Australians – they love to discover new food. I think because the country is so isolated from the rest of the world so they don’t get to experience what people in Europe can enjoy all the time.”
The restaurant initially began as a pop-up at a local bar in neighbouring Newtown. Picture: Supplied
In the almost four years since Little Lagos opened, Mr Adeniyi said he still hasn’t made a dent in trying all the different cuisines on Enmore Road.
“There is always something new happening and a different experience to enjoy depending on what you’re looking for,” he said.
Enmore Road vs King Street
While Enmore Road has historically taken a back seat to King Street when it comes to culture, Kristian Morris of Ray White Commercial believes the street’s renewed cachet can be attributed to rubbing shoulders with its ‘cool’ neighbour.
“I think Enmore Road has become super hip and trendy because it’s enjoyed positive spinoff from the success of King Street in Newtown,” he explained.
“It’s also more affordable – the rents are generally a lot cheaper and landlords have been willing to be flexible which has attracted tenants away from King Street.”
Pasan Wijesena agrees, noting the “pretty good relationships” he’s enjoyed with Enmore Road landlords.
“Look don’t get me wrong, some really don’t care who the operator is as long as the rent is paid and they can continue living overseas. But I would say in general, most have been very supportive of our ventures and are willing to go the distance with us.”
“Many of them have lived in the area for decades,” he added, “so they’re invested in its culture and success. And I think that also plays into the almost rural community vibe of Enmore Road, which is something that’s maybe a bit lacking in the main part of King Street.”
Read more: The hip new Sydney bar without any bartenders.
Community vibes
As any hospitality owner will attest, community support can ultimately make or break a venue during tough times.
This was emphasised during Covid when Mr Wijesena witnessed residents supporting local bars and restaurants offering takeaway services.
“It showed how Enmore Road is not just a high street for people visiting the area, but a vital residential hub too,” he said. “The businesses that really tend to do well there are either run by locals or have a good amount of community engagement.”
The Enmore Theatre is the ‘beating heart’ of Enmore Road, attracting local and international artists. Picture: Getty
Opening its doors just weeks prior to the lockdown, Little Lagos also managed to weather the Covid storm thanks to the support of local patronage.
The restaurant has remained active in the community ever since, engaging with fellow venues via local business groups and running pop-ups at local events.
“We also run our own events to support local musicians who are just starting out and also more established artists,” said Mr Adeniyi. “I like to think of the venue as a little home for everyone in the area to enjoy good food and music, or just pop in and say hi.”
Live music and The Enmore Theatre ecosystem
Since launching The Trocadero Room in November, Pasan Wijesena’s aim has been to reignite the spirit of the raucous music venues he frequented during the city’s nightlife heyday of the early-to-mid 2000s.
“There were so many places putting on cool live shows and hosting up-and-coming bands, DJs and comedy nights back then, which all seem to have disappeared now,” he lamented. “They’re slowly coming back, which is nice, and I think the new entertainment precinct designation of the street will only help that.”
Mr Wijesena believes Enmore Road is now one of the busiest precincts in Sydney since the city’s post pandemic rebirth.
“I think a lot of that is largely due to The Enmore Theatre, which is like the heart of the Enmore Road ecosystem,” he noted. “When the Enmore Theatre is pumping, everyone else is busy too.”
Ade Adeniyi agrees: “If there’s something on at The Enmore, the street is packed with people enjoying dinner or drinks before the show.”
Though not everyone views this as the best way to ensure the ongoing success of the strip.
“The Enmore Theatre is like a barometer for how the street is really doing,” explained Papa Disquo Records owner, Gonzo Galliani.
“What I mean is, if we can survive without the theatre, then we’re doing well. But when we’re begging for there to be a show – or really upset when there’s no show because we know it means we’re going to have a bad night – that’s not a healthy situation.”
Gonzo Galliani is the owner of Papa Disquo Records. Picture: Supplied
Mr Galliani – who opened his record store in 2019 – questions the assertion Enmore Road is always busy, claiming that while weekends can be bustling, “nothing really happens” during the week.
“If retail is to survive, we need people out on a Wednesday night, on a Thursday night,” he said. “That used to happen, but not anymore. The lockout laws and over-policing have made people believe staying at home is better than going out.”
“Sure, these things are cyclical and I think Enmore Road was having a good run back when Cottonmouth Records was around, the Tiki Bar had just opened and The Duke was the new Frankie’s [Pizza],” he continued.
“But nothing seems to last more than six months now. I’ve seen three Turkish restaurants next door to me come and go since Covid.”
Looking ahead
While Pasan Wijesena agrees the age of Uber Eats and Netflix can be challenging for small businesses in coaxing people out of their homes, he remains optimistic about the future.
“If we can create an environment where stuff is always happening in all types of venues up and down the street – whether it’s a small music offering, comedy night, poetry reading, whatever – then people will get used to going out again,” he said.
“And the more businesses that put on live entertainment, the more it will inspire others to do the same. Like all good things, I think it will just take some time.”
